Why does my emachine not turn on

Now put the battery back in. If this doesn't help, then test the power cord to see if it is good. Either try your cord in another device, or try another devices cord in your laptop.

You may also want to try charging it when the device is off, rather than on. If it works then, the cord is probably the issue. Should that not be the problem, then check the battery to see if it needs replacing. The charger is working the light on adapter is on to indicate power flow. And the power button light comes on with and with out battery by means of the ac plug but the board just refuses to boot and holding the power button trick does not work.

You must log in or register to reply here. Any suggestions? When the system is operated in windows 7 OS the notification panel Laptop Tech Support 1 May 22, L My e machine mini laptop bought newly hangs a lot.

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When the system is operated in windows 7 OS the notification panel My e machine mini laptop bought newly hangs a lot. Post thread. Digital Cameras. Started by Wdawg Nov 3, Replies: 2. Apps General Discussion. Laptop Tech Support. Question Does a docking station that bridges peripheries and monitors to a laptop and computer exist?

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Visit our corporate site. All rights reserved. England and Wales company registration number Top Bottom. Question I have a emachine laptop. It powers on for about five seconds then power off. Apr 14, I have a eMachines D laptop I would like to upgrade. Aug 13, Good luck. Jul 28, 2 0 10, 0. Curious as to how you determine a CPU is bad by examining it other than bent pins? Apr 24, 1 0 10, 0. Most problems is caused by computer over heated on the processer.

Jun 16, 1 0 10, 0. I just acquired the same machine and found it had the same problem you're discussing. I tried the "hold down power button" prior to applying power solution - no fix. Then I thought it might be the mentioned power supply problem and I started checking voltages. Didn't find a problem there either.

Then I decided to try the little jumper I found on the motherboard labeled "BR1". So layouts probably differ; I'll give the solution I found for others who may have the Intel board and maybe it can work on the AMD also. The aforementioned jumper lists 3 positions: 1 Normal: jumper on pins 1,2; 2 Config: jumper on pins 2,3; 3 Recover: no pins jumpered. I moved the jumper from 'normal' to 'config', with power off of course, and when I powered up ' Viola' I started getting a video signal.

It offered the option for F2 to take me into setup. I did this, checked settings and changed a few. Then it tells you, "Shut down. Then move jumper back to 'normal' position and reboot. It seemed to work fine from there and I booted into Windows with no problem. To add a little more, I next put the modem card back in and put in a PCIe video card. Powered up and it seemed to be back to the "no boot" problem.

So I redid the jumper thing with 'config' position and went through the steps again. Worked again after that so I may draw the conclusion that this will happen anytime the hardware is reconfigured, but I've only got the one event to base that on and thus I could be off base.

Jan 21, 2 0 10, 0. Fried Motherboard, just write a good comment so customer can return or RMA the computer, if customer is out of warranty then buy a new motherboard CPU combo, or if current CPU is not built in the motherboard then just buy a new board with the same socket as the broken computer, this cheap motherboard lack of good programing in the BIOS chip, also prone to fail components such as capacitors, resistors, etc. Just RMA the thing or return to seller.

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Consumer Electronics. Question Anti-Virus mining? Latest: Patrick 14 minutes ago. I got to the point where I ordered a new CPU and motherboard an upgrade from my original intel socket to an intel socket I got a dual core at last ;p. However, I still got the same problem. Everything is plugged in correctly, I am sure of that. Intel Pentium Dual Core 2. And if you have an after market graphics card, I would take it out and go back to the integrated graphics on the motherboard And then unplug ANY external equipment Try and boot it then Watch the lights on the case and see if it boots If it does, then you can plug things back in one at a time, rebooting in between every device and narrow the problem down to one thing.

Definitely sounds like a loose connection. Make sure your ribbon cables are tight into the mobo and the HD's. Derp, if I were you I would strip the system down to bare minimals like I described earlier. I usually do this anyways when I change out a motherboard. I have already attempted something like this, and still get the same problem - no beeps, no signal to monitor etc etc.

I could probably try a few more times and try some different combinations, but I am not sure this is a 'barebones system' problem. I would take out all of the cards too.. That narrows it down to HD, or bad memory My first motherboard read up for the full story behind my pc ;p did, and I did try removing the graphics card with everything else, and relied on the onboard graphics to try and get a signal, but as far as I could tell, nothing.

To see if everything works individually. Mike - I Have been able to boot using the F8 key. Then when the leaning it over started the boot process it appears there are more underling problems. The last time I booted it I out of frustion hit it on top of the case and it started booting.

Larry, here is my suspicion. My assumption is that the corrupt driver keeps the computer from booting UNLESS you boot in safe mode which is what booting with F8 is called , OR the loose connection keeps the device hidden from the motherboard.

When you boot into safe mode, the computer only loads the drivers that are absolutely necessary for operation. Where the confusing part comes in is the booting normally when you lean it over or hit it very amusing btw :. Which leads me to believe that there is a loose connection to the SAME device that has the bad driver I realize this seems to be about the same odds as getting struck by lightening, but this is all I can imagine not having the machine in front of me What I would do to start troubleshooting this issue is disconnect everything in the system that isn't needed in the boot process If it boots I would plug them in, one at a time, and check to see which device prevents the system from booting If everything works in another machine, what you are left with is the motherboard.

It would also be important to point out that my original PSU that blew was a w. I replaced it with a w PSU when I got the issue with my old motherboard which had a single core P4. It would start up, although the usual no POSTing, with one button press. But with my new motherboard, along with its dual core CPU, I have to press the button several times. The more times I go through this, the more times I think it's the PSU simply not providing enough power.

If a PSU does not provide the minimal power needed, is this likely to happen? Is my hypothesis on the right track? I posted a list of my current hardware earlier in the thread - is a w adequate for that setup?

Well for one, yes a dual core will draw more power than a single. The wattage you are drawing with the new setup is close to maxing out a W PSU, but it "should" be able to take it Unless there is another piece of hardware you forgot to mention..

It might be worth trying a higher wattage PSU though. Which btw is NOT enough to push your machine.. You very well may be right about the PSU not putting out enough power if you happen to get a "bottom of the curve" rated PSU.